Ditch the Mayo: Ukrainians Revamp Holiday Feasts | TNNEWS
New Year Celebrations in Former Soviet Republics: A Culinary Tradition
Reviving Festive Traditions
In many households with roots in the former Soviet Union, New Year’s Eve is marked by a grand feast. This tradition harks back to the Soviet era when New Year’s replaced Christmas as the primary holiday due to anti-religious policies.
“For many, it’s still the most significant celebration,” shares Polina Chesnakova, a food writer who emigrated to the U.S. after the Soviet Union’s dissolution and grew up among Soviet refugees.
Traditional Dishes with a Modern Twist
Classic dishes like shuba (herring under a fur coat) and Olivier salad, a Russian potato salad, are staples. These dishes often feature mayonnaise, a popular ingredient during the Soviet era to enhance the limited flavors available.
However, many Ukrainians are now moving away from these Soviet influences, focusing more on Christmas and reviving traditional holiday recipes.
Rediscovering Ukrainian Culinary Heritage
“Many Ukrainian chefs are exploring our cultural roots and working to revive our rich culinary heritage,” says Mykola Yudin, head chef at Ruta, a Ukrainian restaurant in Washington, D.C.
Yudin, originally from Donetsk, relocated to Kyiv in 2014 due to regional conflicts and later moved to the U.S. following the 2022 invasion. He has been delving into historical Ukrainian recipes, discovering ingredients like almond flour and vanilla that were used before Soviet times.
Celebrating with Kutia and Uzvar
A highlight of the Ukrainian Christmas table is kutia, a warm, sweet porridge made from pearled barley, berries, nuts, and stewed dried fruit. This dish is often accompanied by uzvar, a drink made from boiled dried fruits, which can also be mixed into the porridge.
“This is an old recipe from my grandmother,” Yudin explains.
Challenges and Resilience
Despite being far from home, Yudin and his colleague Anastasiia Briukh, who also fled Ukraine in 2022, continue to support their families by sending funds for essentials like power banks, as Russian attacks have disrupted electricity supplies.
Ukraine’s president is engaged in discussions with President Trump regarding a peace proposal, which includes potential compromises on eastern territories, Yudin’s homeland.
“Ukrainians are always open to compromise,” Yudin states through an interpreter. “Our culture and land are precious, but our people are the most important.”
A Taste of Home
As the new year approaches, Ukrainians abroad celebrate with dishes that bring the comfort and taste of home, keeping their traditions alive despite the distance.
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