From Shepherd Songs to Gang Wars: The Dramatic Evolution of Lesotho’s Famo Music

The Legacy of Lesotho’s Famo Music

In the heart of Lesotho, a small mountainous nation in Africa, Puseletso Seema stands as a symbol of musical heritage. Known as “the Queen of Famo,” Seema has captivated the Basotho people with her unique style of pastoral accordion music.

Life of a Musical Icon

Despite her fame, Seema’s life is far from luxurious. At 77, she resides in a modest home on the outskirts of Maseru, where the landscape is dotted with shepherds and children riding donkeys. The winter air is crisp, and snow caps the distant peaks, yet Seema struggles without electricity, her health waning as she reflects on her groundbreaking career in a male-dominated industry.

The Essence of Famo

Famo, akin to jazz in its emotional depth, is a genre deeply rooted in Lesotho’s culture. “It’s a music that lets you express every emotion,” Seema explains. Journalist Motsamai Mokotjo describes it as a blend of poetry and accordion, capturing the essence of Basotho history and life, much like hip hop does in America.

From Shepherd to Star

Growing up in one of the world’s poorest countries, Seema had no formal education and worked as a shepherd, a role typically reserved for boys. “I started singing famo while tending to livestock,” she recalls. The music, initially a rural tradition, followed the Basotho to South Africa’s mines, where it evolved in urban shebeens.

Breaking Barriers

Seema ventured to Johannesburg, not as a miner, but as a performer for the miners, breaking into a realm dominated by men. “I was the first woman to produce famo music,” she proudly states, challenging norms where women were expected only to dance.

Modern Challenges

Today, famo is entangled with gang violence, prompting the Lesotho government to take action. Prime Minister Sam Matekane has labeled certain groups as terrorists due to the escalating violence. The government crackdown followed a series of revenge killings, highlighting the dark turn famo has taken.

Music and Conflict

Musician Mpho Malikeng compares the situation to the infamous East Coast-West Coast hip hop rivalry in the U.S., where lyrical battles often lead to real-world violence. “It’s about territory and respect,” he explains, noting the government’s controversial bans and the political ties to famo gangs.

Seema’s Perspective

Despite the turmoil, Seema remains focused on the music’s roots. “I don’t support music that promotes hate,” she asserts, distancing herself from the violent aspects that have overshadowed the genre. Meanwhile, famo continues to resonate with illegal miners in South Africa, known as “zama zamas,” who risk everything in search of fortune.